Wednesday, August 1, 2012

In Poverty and in Wealth

In sickness and in health; in poverty and in wealth. Is it really surprising that wealth and health differ by only one letter? They are brothers who can hardly be separated. Where Wealth adventures Health often follows. Such a relationship is common knowledge; when Wealth and Health leave an area, their cousins Poverty and Sickness fill the emptiness.

When we began starting our community health needs assessment for the Clínica de Familia in La Romana, we noticed an interesting trend almost immediately in the answers we were receiving to one particular question. When people were asked what were there greatest concerns about their health, an enormous percentage of people (22% or some 44 people) commented that their greatest health concern was the economy. For these people living with much less access to quality healthcare, it was very evident to them that health was associated with wealth. And the levels of poverty in the Island Hispañola are ever evident to the world, especially since the earthquake in Haiti in 2010.

And that's another interesting point: the Dominican Republic is often compared and perhaps shadowed by its neighbor Haiti,  which unfortunately has the highest burden of HIV in Latin America and thus the Western Hemisphere (some 120,000 inhabitants of Haiti are currently living with HIV). In comparison, the Dominican Republic is considered largely "middle class" and less individuals living with HIV (around 60,000). However, the divisions of wealth still vary greatly in the DR, and the burden of disease is still quite large even in the shadow of Haiti. In urban areas, 60% of urban dwellers are classified as living in the middle to superior quintiles of poverty, that is, the majority of urban dwellers belong to the middle class or higher. Contrastingly, 43% of those living in rural communities belong to the lowest quintile (CESDEM, 2008). However, the reality is that a large portion of the poorest in the Dominican Republic are Haitian, making the issue even more complex. Furthermore, reading these statistics are much more striking to me now, especially after seeing the faces of the 43%.

Fields of Sugar Cane courtesy of James Marvel

We had the unique opportunity to visit a batey for a vertical transmission visit (transmission of HIV between mother and child). The bateyes are small towns formed by sugar companies directly next to the fields of sugar cane so that the workers can conveniently live where they work. Unfortunately"batey" has become synonymous with poverty and horrid conditions, and rumors have it that Central Romana, the largest sugar cane company, purposely do not dedicate resources to improve the conditions of the bateyes. Improved conditions might mean improved education and a decreased number of individuals willing to work in the batey.

The day was overcast and the six of us traveled with Luís - our volunteer coordinator and Elizabeth - a woman from the Clínica de Familia that works specifically with vertical transmission. Three of us sat in the back of the pickup while passing by the endless miles of sugar cane fields. The blades of cane shot up in various degrees, their sharp fingers stretching upward tearing at the heavens, perhaps in hope that they might just open up. Often, we would pass workers on the side of the road carrying machetes, covered in the eternal remnants of the cane. We turn down one small road. Shacks began appearing, and soon a letrero appeared before us, its faded letters barely legible: "Batey 82".


The truck came to a slow stop next to a set of buildings – presumably houses. The spilt, uneven grey wood sandwiched between concrete floors and tin roofs marked the age of the incondite building. We hopped out of the truck and headed towards a group of individuals. Their skin was dark like midnight and their thick French-influenced accents hinted at their Haitian roots. One Haitian woman holding a small infant greeted Elizabeth with a kiss and warm embrace. Elizabeth wrapped her arms around the toddler and gave him kisses on the head. Eventually, Elizabeth handed the baby to Luís and we headed up the steps to the gray house.

I glanced around, taking in the surroundings: a man with a hoe was walking towards the house slowly on the dirt road; a woman behind the house was shoveling coal into a bucket in a small shack, the grey polvo covering the radiant dark skin of the woman; another five-year-old child sat on the porch next to us, timidly examining us.  I noticed a small caldera filled with coals where food was prepared and cooked. Food was scarce for this family, plagued potentially by the lack of access to education and even further plagued by the threat of HIV. (And despite these impoverished conditions, it is not uncommon to see individuals in the bateyes or in poverty with a cell phone, principally prepaid and incredibly cheap.)

The conversation between Elizabeth and the young Haitian mother did not last long. Nonetheless, it was clear that this Haitian woman depended on Elizabeth's constant visits and even more her constant love. We prepared to leave, the visit all too short but filled with compassion, glazed with humility and gently sprinkled with humanity.

As I smiled at the infant and he began to smile back, I realized that, despite the extreme boundaries that separate the wealthy from the poor and all of the factors that predispose a person to a life of poverty, sickness, and extreme disadvantage, there still are some factors that transcend the boundaries of sickness and health like that of a simple smile.




Wednesday, July 11, 2012

Cinco puntos...


I stare out the window as the guagua waddles up the mountain. Mountains blanketed in vegetation loom into the sky, while the westen-bound sun trudges along, showing no mercy to those under Don Sol's potent gaze. The faint yellow trailings of the sun that cascade across the ancient mountains paint my mind and body serene. It has been so long since I have seen mountains, I realize. In fact, these ancient green giants are the closest representations of mountains that I have been around in far too long.  


The culprit...
Trivia 1. (Answers at the end)
Which substance(s) is/are best for cleaning 
wounds while promoting healing and pre-
venting infection:
A. Povidine-Iodine
B. Saline (Water + Salt)
C. Tap Water
D. Hydrogen Peroxide
E. Soap (or some sort of detergent)
My right leg aches, dragging my mind away from its humble fortress of solitude. Hours of stillness leave my muscles and body craving for proper rest. My right hand instinctively reaches downward, touching my right shin bone softly, as if to reassure myself that the five stitches are still there, and moreover to remind me of my bad decision. To think that tripping on and slamming into a two-foot tall cement step while carrying hamburgers was enough to result in a 2.5 centimeter gash and five puntos to close it up. On the bright side, I managed to keep the hamburgers on the plate, not sacrificing a single one. Plus, I got to see the Dominican health system from the perspective of a patient. Somehow I have a feeling there are better ways of familiarizing myself with the system, though.

Today we are in search of adventure, principally to experience 27 Charcos (27 Waterfalls) - a beautiful, semi-extreme outdoor adventure site between Santiago and Puerta Plata that requires unique methods to descend down the mountain. Of course, this involves submerging my body, including my two-day-old stitches, into water for several hours. It seemed like a good idea at the start of the day...


The bus pulls up to 27 Charcos while I'm wondering what the hell I have gotten myself into. The risk of infection and re-injury becomes a daunting reality. Nonetheless, I am committed so we pay our tickets and I sit down. My leg has been shaved in preparation for the work that must be done before we depart for the waterfalls. Reaching into my bag, I pull out some gauze, a plastic bag, and duct tape.  James wraps my leg up nicely, kindly preserving some circulation. The group gathers, we collect our gear, and I dig deep in search of some piece of courage from what's left of my "Rocky Mountain Oysters." Then either the best adventure of my life or my worst pesadilla begins. 



After 45 minutes of hiking through the jungle, which resembles some prehistoric creation (in fact some parts of Jurassic Park were filmed in the DR) we arrive at a pool set against a stone wall, its turquoise waters gleaming off the walls. I hesitated, resisting the urge to enter the water until absolutely necessary. After quenching my thirst at a nearby trickling waterfall, we treck down the river to the first waterfall. It was unavoidable at this point. Helmets on and chalecos for floatation firmly in place, we were off... 


...and so began the greatest adventure of my life. 

No... That's not me unfortunately...
Trivia 2.
True or False: Wetting a wound before removing the stitches increases the 
risk of infection? 
We slid down natural water slides into pools of refreshing mountain water while other times we jumped off waterfalls as high as 25 feet, plunging feet first into the depths. Sometimes we found ourselves wading and floating our ways through cavernous trenches carved out by millions of years of erosion. Tall walls would surround us while dazzling aquamarine water shimmered off the ancient walls encompassing us. The gentle jungle canopy overhead provided cover from the scorching fingers of Don Sol. I lost count of the number of times I jumped or slid down into yet another pool of refreshing water and sublimity. 


As we end the tour and I attend to my stitches, thankful that everything is still tied together, I take a moment to bask in the beauty of this country. When I would return to the clinic, rumors would fly that I had been the non-compliant patient who decided to go to 27 Charcos against medical advice. But as one amazing lady at the clinic would remind me: you are young, hay que aprovechar de la vida y la juventud! (One must take advantage of life and youth!). Stupidity and all, it was worth every jump.

I stare at the mountains as we head home down the mountain, exhausted, parts of my clothing still soaked. And for the first time in a long time my mind is quiet; I'm at peace, smiling from the inside out.

Answers:
Trivia 1B, C. This might seem counterintuitive, but water, including saline water is perhaps the best substance for cleaning out wounds. Water dilutes the bacterial concentration in the wound, and combined with pressure helps to remove debris and other fragments left in the wound. Substances such as hydrogen peroxide, iodine, and detergents (such as soaps) are not necessarily horrible substances, but studies demonstrate that they can damage and kill special cells that promote healing (called fibroblasts). In the wilderness, water from a water bottle (especially useful from CamelBacks) or placed in a small ziplock bag with a tiny hole can be used to create high pressure water to clean out wounds. 

Trivia 2False. In fact, some studies show that wetting the site as soon as 12 hours following stitches does NOT increase infection. That being said, I tried to be on the safe side and avoid water in my stitches.  


Source for answers: 2008 Oct 15. Forssch, R.T., "Essentials of Laceration Repair". American Family Physician. 78(8):945-951. http://www.aafp.org/afp/2008/1015/p945.html 


Sunday, June 24, 2012

Between Two Palms

Upper Middle: Dominican Man Under the Palm Tree
Big head taking up most of the picture: James
"Quizás seas mejor después de una cerveza," chuckled the Dominican Man Under the Palm Tree. I stand up on the line one more time, refusing James and Kathy's offers for support. I place my fit on the orange cord. A deep breath. As I exhale I push up on the cord, trusting it's tensile properties. I feel my feet leave the white sandy beach and for one second my confidence soars. And just as quickly it plummits as I lose my balance and softly touch the ground. The Dominican Man Under the Palm Tree smiles and thrusts a 3/4 filled Presidente forward with a few cups.

"That's very kind of you but I don't want to steal your beer," I responded in a gringo fashion. But the Dominican Man Under the Palm Tree insists, and his family joins in unison. I know it would be terribly rude to refuse the beer, even if it makes Keystone taste like this years best brew. I drink a few small cups and surprisingly after each I manage to get one more step. (It seems that each step is directly correlated to the number of drinks I have had although this relationship can hardly be linear). As we all take turns balancing on the rope, the family continues smiling, offering comments and ratings; even their children come to try the rope once. Within minutes of arriving at Bayahibe while it is raining, we had already made amigos. After just a few hours we were a little less gringo and a little more platanado.


Sorpresas in the sand!
This was one large cangrejo found in the sand by the family. 
There are many lines in this country, some more obvious than others. On the beach in  Bayahibe you could see the clear division (there is actually a line) between the touristy private beach and the side where we were with the Dominican families. There are places like Casa de Campo and Alta Chavón with 7,000 acres, two full golf courses, polo fields, several villas, shops, etc. Then there is La Romana and the rest of the Dominican Republic full of its daily struggles and incredible divisions between the wealthy and the impoverished. Every day I feel like I am walking on a slack line, balancing between one extreme and the other. On one side is my white skin where the associations of wealth, foreignness, and all other stereotypes prevail; on the other side is the extreme poverty and depression by which I am surrounded daily. This is a reality.

Baby Cangrejos
So today, I keep trying, taking one step at a time, balancing between being foreign and a persona de confianza who the Dominicans can trust. And I'm learning to fall all the while.

It's raining now, and the Dominican family begins stir. Our Amigo Under the Palm Tree smiles at us and wishes us the best. There were no lines or judgments separating us, and de hecho there never was...

Thursday, June 21, 2012

El Principio - The Beginning...

I turn on the TV in our house. It seems that New York is experiencing record high temperatures approaching triple digits. I have spent six days now under the dictatorship of Don Heat and his advisor Don Humidity in the Dominican Republic. I cannot help but feel cheated; my one-up stories for spending the summer locked in a sauna that has short-circuited begin to fade away. I open my computer and I read the temperature of La Romana... 88 degrees, nothing like the "feels like 98 degrees" in New York. But then I read further... The phrase "It feels like" catches my attention: 101 degrees Fahrenheit. It seems I still have three degrees in my favor...

Despite the feeling that a warm, moist blanket is slowly suffocating me and the fact that after a shower I cannot tell if the I am wiping off more water or more sweat, there is something else that predominates in the air, something that allows me to tolerate this heat and stifling humidity, something that I think the Dominicans in New York have been trying to explain to me for this past year: there is something magical in the air that makes this place enchanting.

The Dominican Republic is a beautiful and unique country. Despite the stifling heat, most people continue wearing pants. In fact, the mode of dress in this country, at least in La Romana, coincides greatly with the perception of who you are. If you dress in shorts, sunglasses, and carry a camera around, well you definitely will be labeled as a tourist; if you wear speedos on the beach, you are probably European. (Contrastingly, most Dominican men wear there T-shirts into the water, a style that will not be appearing anytime soon on Cosmo's acceptable list of appropriate items to wear to the beach.) And no matter how hard I try to blend in, there's no escaping the fact that I will still be a gringo (foreigner/white person).

Nevertheless, trying to sum up the Dominican Republic in a few words is a great injusticia. The reality is, this county has too much culture, too much riqueza, and definitely too many nights of bachata, merengue, and salsa to do it any justice en pocas palabras. So instead, if you're willing, let me take you on a journey through streets were "motos" (small, rambunctious motorcycles) with as many as five people on them dominate the streets; where mangos, avocados, passionfruit, soursop (guanábana), etc., grow in your backyard; where poverty clashes with prosperity; and where the language is rapid, the culture rich, and the food always delicious. 

And, at the end of this journey, perhaps, just maybe, you'll see why this place is so...

...magical.